Accuracy with the 1/4″ Seam Allowance

First, let’s define what is a seam allowance. It is the space between the stitches and the edge of the fabric. If you sew clothes, the seam allowance requirement is large and is generally 5/8″. Quilt patterns require a seam allowance of 1/4”. When you follow the instructions and assemble your quilt pattern each piece is stitched together with a 1/4” seam.

above: definition of a seam allowance
Seam Marker Guides on a Juki TL 98-Q
written in inches and mm

The abbreviation for Seam Allowance is SA. Sometimes it is written like this in quilt patterns.

quick tip

It is important to keep an exact seam allowance (SA) throughout an entire quilt project. If not, the pieces will have different seam sizes and in the end it won’t be possible to assemble the quilt together.

This might seem unimportant to be consistent. However, little by little as you sew the seam allowance too big, the quilt sections shrink. If you sew the SA too small, the entire project grows. It all adds up and eventually an entire row or block can be off by inches!

Obtain a Quarter Inch with
3 ideas

There are several ways to find the quarter inch measurement on your sewing machine. I will give you three ideas.

1) Some of you might have this quarter inch marker on your sewing machine. My machine has the measurement written and a line to help guide me as I feed my fabric. The measure is written in inches and millimeters.

Seam Markers are highlighted in yellow
1/4 for inches
7 for mm

2) Another way to keep the 1/4” seam is with a special presser foot. It is possible to buy a special presser foot with little measurements written on it. Order one that fits your make and model sewing maching. Some feet are sold as “universal”, which means they work on all machines (clip or screw). Once you have this special foot, you will have to check the seam allowance. Do you need to move your needle to the right or left?

3) Finally, you can make your own seam allowance guide on your sewing machine with some tape and a ruler. Start measuring from the position of your needle.

The Scant

What does scant mean? It means slightly less. When creating your seam allowance a scant of 1/4″, this means sewing slightly slightly slightly less than 1/4″. Sewing at a scant is excellent for thicker fabric because as the fabric is turned open, the weight of the fabric takes up space. The scant accommodates the space of the fabric and the measurement is a perfect 1/4”.

The Most Important Thing

The best thing to do when sewing is to choose a marker for measurment and then stick to it for the entire project. This is the best advice I can give you for a happy successful quilt experience.

To use a quarter inch marker on your sewing machine remember these options:

  • use the quarter inch marker on your sewing machine (like mine)
  • use a special presser foot with measurments written on it
  • use tape as a marking guide on your machine

Have a joyful week!
From Rome with Love,
Rachel

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